Bus Rides

When we landed in Cameroon we landed in Yaounde, naturally, so after a couple days of prep in the big city we headed out to Bambalang.

We hired a bus, so we were able to sit comfortably in what would have usually been an 18 passenger van. It was an eight hour bus ride, but we stopped every couple of hours at bathrooms and food markets. This journey happened on maybe our third day in Cameroon, and most of the team was still pretty nervous, so when we stopped to get lunch at a market, only a couple of us ventured out and bought food for the whole group. We weren't sure what to expect and we acted very cautiously.

Now, on the way back we hired the same bus and driver, Sidu (who was absolutely wonderful and marvelous), and headed back to Yaounde. We were much more confident in our knowledge of Cameroonian culture this time, and we even decided to buy unknown foods through the window (you can read that story below). We all ventured out into the food market, and we knew how to haggle for food. We were used to the stares and people calling out to us. It was a completely different experience.

Then our tire popped. Two hours later, after some interesting encounters on the side of the road, and Adriana chasing lots of bugs with her camera, we were back on the road. And everything was still fine. On our way up, I am positive we would have handled the experience very differently, but as it was, we were okay and that experience didn't color the rest of our time in Cameroon. Instead, the rest of our time in Cameroon had taught us how to deal with the experience, how to be patient and okay with sudden changes in the schedule. How to deal with unwanted attention and remain safe.

Flying into Yaounde, we didn't think much of it being a big city. The city itself is large, but it is nothing like Toronto. There are stores, with buildings and everything, and lots of traffic and people. But it isn't a North American big city. Driving back in from Bambalang, we thought a lot of it being a big city. Having stayed in an even more rural part of the country, we know thought that Yaounde was a huge city. Our eyes were opened to differences we hadn't been able to perceive before.

All this to say, even though we took the same route and even rode in the same bus, that month of living in Cameroon really changed us. And we didn't notice until we realized how different each bus ride was.

How to Ride a Benskin

Some of you may have seen the pictures of my team riding benskins, or you may have heard that motos were the best way for us to get around. Well, they were, so I thought you might like to have the low-down on how to safely travel on a motorcycle in Cameroon.

First, you have to know the lingo. Moto, benskin, motorbike, all are appropriate words for the vehicle you will be riding. However, there is a difference between a benskin and a moto. A benskin is a taxi, while a moto is a personal bike. Benskin drivers are part of a union, so if they see someone taking money for driving people then they can report them. Their motorbikes are usually covered in bright vinyl with lots of different designs, so benskins stand out from motos. But not always.

Secondly, you need to get a helmet. Safety first, people.

And the last thing you need to do is learn how to flag a driver down. The best way to do that is to walk in the direction you are wanting to go, and every time a motorbike comes by, you stick your index finger out. If they are a benskin and free, they will stop and ask you where you are going. If they aren't free, they will drive right by, and if they aren't a benskin, they will usually shake their head at you.

So now you are ready to get on a benskin and go to your destination! Don't forget to agree on a price before you get on the bike, and tell the driver to go slow, especially if this is your first time. With the price set and the driver ready, now comes the challenging part of getting on.

Men, you are probably thinking, how is getting on challenging? I dare you to get on a moto in skirt, and then you can come back to me. Ladies, I hope you are wearing long, flowing skirts, because otherwise, you are going to have to ride side-saddle. With you long, hippie-like skirt, just hop on like you were wearing pants. Make sure your knees are covered, but kind of gather your skirt in front so the driver won't sit on it. If you are wearing a tighter skirt, one which would show your knees if you tried to ride normally, you should ride side-saddle. It's actually not so bad. I think I rode side-saddle more often than not because I made poor clothing choices while packing. Just hop right on, and you're golden. If there is more than one person riding (besides the driver), you'll have to sit on the back, because otherwise it'd just be awkward times.

And know you're on a benskin! You may be wondering where to hold on. If you are in between two people (say the driver and your travelling companion), don't worry about holding on. At first it might be a little scary, though, so I suggest holding on to your companion's knees. It won't help at all, but it's slightly more comforting. If you are on the back, just reach down and hold onto the seat or the luggage rack (which you are probably sitting on anyway). All in all, don't worry about it.

As you drive along, enjoy the sights and everyone calling out to you. Wave at people if you are feeling daring. If you feel uncomfortable with the speed, you can try to tell your driver to go slower. I won't promise that he actually will, though. Benskin is a lovely, refreshing way to travel. It is fast and beats the heat of walking, so I recommend it. It's a lot of fun, too, especially when you get passed the scared stage of riding benskins.

Photo credit goes to Rebekah Schumacher, for
capturing Serena and I riding off on a benskin.

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial! If you have any questions about benskin riding, feel free to ask. I'd love to tell you more. (If anyone more knowledgeable about the art of benskin riding reads this and sees any mistakes, please let me know.)